Prasat Phanom Rung, Buriram
Prasat Phanom Rung is one of the most significant ancient monuments of Thailand. Located on the top of Phanom Rung hill near Ta-pek village of Chalermphrakiet district, Buriram province. Phanom Rung Hill is one of the ancient volcanoes in the lower northeast region. The hill rises over 383 meters above sea level and still has an obvious volcanic appearance as do its neighboring peaks such as Khao Kradong and Phu Angkhan. A pool has formed in the crater of the volcano at Phanom Rung hill. The pool was modified for religious function at the time of the construction of the monastery.
Khao Phanom Rung is an extinct volcano which has been dormant for 900,000 years. When the sanctuary was built on the top of Khao Phanom Rung, sight alterations were made to the crater, and it was turned into a huge reservoir with sufficient water supply for consumption. Phanom Rung has been the original name of the mountain itself and the sanctuary on top of it since at least 989 or the 11th century A.D. The word appeared in 4 Khmer alphabet inscriptions written in the Khmer language discovered at Prasat Phanom Rung. The word “Phanom Rung” derived from a Khmer word “Vnam Rung” which means a large mountain, the same meaning as the words “S-Thuadri” and “S-Thula Saila” in other Khmer alphabet inscriptions written in the Sanskrit language. Prasat Phanom Rung is a sanctuary dedicated to the Pasupata sect of Sivaite Hinduism, which believed in the God Siva. The construction of Prasat Phanom Rung on the top of the mountain was, therefore, compared to that of the God Siva’s residence, which is believed to be situated on the top of mount Kailasa. The buildings within the complex of Prasat Phanom Rung can be divided by chronological order into 4 periods. The most ancient are the two brick towers of Koh Kare style built around the 10th century A.D. The second period is attested by Prasat Noi, which was built around the 11th century A.D. in Baphoun style. The third period is when most of the structures within the complex were constructed including the main tower around the 12th century A.D. in the Angkor Wat style. The last period is apparent from the two laterite libraries or Bannalai built between the 12-13th A.D. in the Bayon style.
The Plan of Prasat Phanom Rung. The architectural remains at Phanom Rung are of the structures starting at the bottom of the hill and leading up to the main sanctuary on the hilltop. They formed the most splendid Khmer style monument in Thailand. The architectural elements of Hindu monasteries were created to function the religious purpose as well as to symbolize the Hindu cosmology. The monasteries were built as the palaces of the gods. The plan of Prasat Phanom Rung can be described as follows:
The Lower Stairway built of laterites lead from the eastern slope of the hill to the first cruciform platform which marks the ascent to the eastern entrance. The platform is assumed to be the base of the outer gateway constructed of wood with a tired roof.
The Pavilion. To the northwest of the first cruciform platform is a rectangular laterite structure measuring 6.4 meters x 20.4 meters. It faces the southern walkway which links the first cruciform platform with the upper stairway. The structure has porches in the east and the west. The remains of four sandstone pillars suggest that a pavilion once rose above it. The pavilion is surrounded by the laterite gallery with sandstone doorjambs. The long narrow gallery has doorways and steps at either end as well as the eastern and northern sides. The gallery is surrounded by walls with the front entry linking to the first cruciform platform. The pavilion is now known as the dress changing pavilion as it is believed to have been used by the king for changing his royal attire before entering the temple or else as the gathering hall of the courtiers when the king visited the monastery. The pavilion was probably built in the 13th century A.D. since the laterite which was the main material used at that time is the main construction material. Also, the distinguishing lotus-petalled design carved on the capital and the flower design on abacus show the artistic style of the Bayon period. With the exception of the naga frame of the pediment made of sandstone still retains the previous Khleang style dated to the 11th century A.D. It was probably shifted from another structure that belonged to that period.
The Processional Way is 9.2 meters wide and 160 meters long, connects the first cruciform platform with the next set of stairs leading up to the main sanctuary. It is paved with blocks of laterite and bordered with sandstone. On either side are sandstone boundary stones with squared bases and the rounded curve of the lotus at the top.
The First Naga Bridge. At the end of the processional was is the second cruciform platform or the first naga bridge. It was built of sandstone measuring 8.2 meters wide and 20 meters long and raised up about 1.5 meters. The platform has front and back lower steps with wing-shaped moonstones connected to the walkway leading to the sacred pool, which once was the volcano’s crater, located in the northeast. The naga bridge is linked with the upper stairways that lead to the main sanctuary. Underneath, the platform is supported by beautifully carved sandstone pillars. The balustrades of the terrace are the form of naga bodies with the five-headed naga, richly crowned, arching up at the corner. The naga’s diadem was carved in the horizontal floral design of Angkor Wat style and dates to the 12th century A.D. The notable part of the naga bridge is the eight-petalled lotus design carved on the floor. The design is surrounded by double lines parallel to the balustrade.
The Upper Stairway. Connected to the first naga bridge are five sets of stairs, built of sandstone. Each set has terraces on either side. The small squares holes that appear on the terrace floor were probably used to contain the religious items, which conical stones with holes were probably used to hold the lamp or flag poles during the rituals.
The Leading Way to the Main Sanctuary. From the upper stairway to the hilltop is a wide sandstone and laterite terrace with four square sacred pools. The central walkway of the terrace leads to the main gateway placed at the middle of the eastern walled gallery while the side laterite walkways connect to the minor gateways on either side further from the main gateway. Numerous tiles found near the place during restoration leads to the assumption that the platform once had a wood structure with tiled roof on top of it.
The Second Naga Bridge. To the west of the wide terrace is the second naga bridge. It has a cruciform plan with naga guarding each corner, as with the first one, but the size is smaller i.e. 5.2 meters wide and 12.4 meters long. It connected to the main gateway of the eastern walled gallery. The central area the floor is carved with the eight-petalled lotus motif.
The Court and the Remains of the Outer Gallery. The main sanctuary of Prasat Phanom Rung is surrounded by two galleries, inner and outer. At present, the outer gallery, measuring 3.1 meters, look like a walkway paved with blocks of laterite connecting to the side entrance to the main sanctuary. Judging the poles and numerous of tiles found during restoration a roof was probably built over the gallery. In the middle of the northern, southern and western galleries appear traces of a cruciform platform, assumed to be the base of the gateways with tiled roof located at each of the four directions. The remains of other structures can still be seen within the compound surrounded by the outer gallery.
Gateway and the Inner Galleries, The main sanctuary of Prasat Phanom Rung is enclosed by inner walls galleries. The galleries are long narrow rectangular rooms, divided into cells, possibly for meditation. The eastern and western galleries share the same plan which is 2.6 meters wide and 59 meters long, while the northern and southern galleries are 68 meters long. The room of the eastern gallery is carved in stone to imitate a tiled roof. The roof peak is decorated with prali or finials. The northern gallery was built of laterite with sandstone doorjambs and windows. Numerous tiles found in the place during restoration suggest that it was a wood structure with a tiled roof. The inner gallery on all four sides has main gateways flanked by two minor gateways, with the exception of the southern gallery which has only a main gateway. The eastern, southern and northern galleries have windows facing the inner court. The outer walls of the galleries were carved as false windows. The main gateways of the eastern and western galleries have both inner and outer porches which when connected to the galleries formed the cruciform structure. But this did not appear in the northern and southern galleries. At the corners where the galleries connected, the outer walls were carved to resemble wooden doors. The gateways with doorways or false doors are adorned with reliefs of floral design or scene from Hindu epics such as on pediments, decorative lintels, colonnades and plasters. The relief of the eastern gateway are in better condition than on the other sides. The most significant reliefs is on the decorative lintel over the middle doorway of the eastern gallery. It depict Indra, the god who protect the eastern position, seated on the Gala face. On the pediment above is Shiva sitting in the gesture of lalitasana with his right hand holding the rosary and the left hand resting on his lap. The relief on the northern pediment of the northern gateway depicts the battle scene between monkeys and Asura from the Ramayana.
The Last Naga Bridge. After passing through the eastern gateway to the inner court, the last naga bridge appears. The bridge links the eastern gateway with the eastern doorway of the antechamber of the main sanctuary. The naga bridge shares the characteristics of the previous naga bridge but is smaller i.e. 3.4 meters wide and 9.9 meters long. There is no lotus motif on the floor of the cruciform structure of the naga bridge. Instead, three open lotuses were carved on a doorstep of the eastern entrance to the antechamber of the main sanctuary.
The Main Sanctuary. The main sanctuary is the most important structure in the precinct of Prasat Phanom Rung. It is located on the hilltop as the center of the monastery. Its plan is square, measuring 8.2 meters wide and 27 meters high, with double porches in the north, south and west. It was connected to the antechamber measuring 8x10 meters by an annex. The architectural elements that formed the main sanctuary of Prasat Phanom Rung are as follows:
The base is a plain platform carved with lotus petals and diamond designs.
The inner sanctum is assumed to have enshrined the lingam, phallic symbol of Shiva’s creative power. The northern entrance had a sandstone drainage channel used to drain away sacred water during religious function.
The superstructure of the main sanctuary is a five-tiered roof adorned with reliefs of Naga, Rishis, Goddesses, Direction Gods and Guardians on pediments and antefixes. The roof of the northern, southern and western porches, as well as the antechamber, has a corbelled arch roof, the same as the gateways of the walled galleries. The ceiling was probably made of carved painted wood as mentioned in one of the inscriptions found at Phanom Rung referring to the presentation of a red ceiling for decoration of the monastery.
The main sanctuary and all adjacent elements have their doorways in the same line. It is probably these doorways once had wooden door panels comparable to the style of the false doors carved on the walled gallery. In front of the cardinal gateways are holes used to protect heaven and the front area of the doors. Several parts of the main sanctuary, such as the platform, the upper and lower part of the wall, decorative pillars, lintels, pediments, porches and antefixes are decorated with carved designs of floral, figure of Hindu gods such as Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma as well as the minor gods and goddess such as the directional deities. Historic scenes are also included, for instance: The relief on the lintel over the front entrance of the antechamber of the main sanctuary depicts the scene of Vishnu reclining on the back of the naga king Ananta, with his consort, Lakshmi, sitting next to his feet. The lotus is rising from the naval of Vishnu with Brahma sitting on it. Brahma was born to create the universe. This relief is known as Vishnu Anantasayin. Above the lintel is the pediment showing the relief of Shiva Dancing or Shiva Nataraja. The lintel over the side entrance of the annex in the north depicts the scene of the incarnation of Vishnu as Krishna. Here Krishna is fighting with the elephant and a lion. The pediment above depicts a scene from the Ramayana, the episode of Ravana abducing Sita. The same scene can be seen on the pediment of the western porch of the main sanctuary with the lower lintel showing Rama and Lakshamana tied with Naga Bas and above is the relief of Sita flying on his chariot seeing Rama and Lakshamana tied and believing that they have been killed. The relief of the inner gateway depicts the story of Krishna killing Kamsa. There are other reliefs depicting other gods such as on the lintel of the northern porch depicting Arjuna winning the arrow shooting match and later his marriage with Draupadi. Apart from the scenes of Hindu epic and mythology, there are some scenes which may relate to the message mentioned in inscriptions. For example the relief of the lintel over the northern gateway of the main sanctuary depicts a row of five ascetics. The center ascetic is assumed to be Shiva or otherwise Narendraditya, the powerful chief who was respected. The relief of the lintel over the western inner entrance of the main sanctuary shows a human figure in dignitary attire, probably indicating Narendraditya in the coronation ceremony when he was accepted as a priest as mentioned in an inscribed stele. The relief adorning Prasat Phanom Rung are in the Angkor Wat style, and date from the 12th-13th centuries A.D. Nevertheless the previous style, Baphuon, still can be found on colonnettes. The form of the roof of the main sanctuary is also in the Angkor Wat style.
The Prang Noi. Next to the main sanctuary in the southwest corner within the compound surrounded by the walled gallery is a Prang Noi. It faces east, and measures 6x6 meters. The roof of the Prang has been ruined, and it is probable that construction work used the stone from it. The Prang Noi is constructed of sandstone with laterite for the inner wall. The only entrance is in the east, and the other sides are carved as false doors imitating wooden door panels. The remaining elements, such as lintels and pediments, are engraved mostly with floral motifs with small human figures (gods) in the middle. For instance, the relief of the eastern pediment depicts Krishna lifting the mountain standing on Gala. The relief on the lintel depicts the deity seated on Gala with a garland motif. The southern lintel is different from the others, having no human figures, the whole is a floral motif. The art style of decorations on the mirror sanctuary is Baphuon dating from the 11th-12th century A.D. as seen from the naga being without a crown. The southern lintel shows the previous style, Khleang of the 11th century A.D. there are two styles mixed, in places such as on the eastern lintel. Therefore the prang noi is assumed to have been built during the early Baphoun period dating it to the 11th century A.D.
The Two Brick Sanctuaries. Near the main sanctuary to the northeast are the remains of two brick sanctuaries measuring about 5x5 meters. One faces to the east and the other faces to the south. The brick sanctuaries have sandstone pilasters with motifs in the Bakheng style dating to the 10th century A.D. Two sandstone sculptures of the same period were also found in the area. Thus it can be said that the sanctuaries were built at the same time i.e. 10th century A.D. and are the oldest structures remaining in the compound of Prasat Phanom Rung.
Library. To the southeast and northeast of the main sanctuary are the laterite rectangular structures. Each has only one doorway with a corbelled arch roof. The southeast structure faces east measuring 11.6x7.1 meters and 5 meters high. The northeast structure faces south, measuring 14.5x8.5 meters and 3 meters high. This style of structure is known in Khmer art as the library, as it is believed it was used to store sacred manuscripts. The structure was built of laterite which is the material used during the Bayon period so it is believed that the two structures were built in the 13th century A.D.
